ITINERARY: FOUR DAYS IN CROATIA
Whether you’re looking to swim in the crystal clear waters, party it up during Yacht Week, explore the islands, check out the waterfalls, or eat delicious farm-to-table foods, Croatia has something for every traveler. However, with so much of the country to explore, it can be hard to fit it into a tight schedule.
Check out how I spent four days in Split, Plitvice Lakes & Krka National Parks, and Hvar Island and checked more than a few things off my Croatia bucket list.
Looking for more inspiration for your trip? Check out these blogs:
This guide is focused on northern Croatia (Split, Plitvice Lakes & Krka National Parks, and Hvar Island), so you’ll need to fly into Split to follow this itinerary.
Pictured: View of Split from the top of the Bell Tower inside Diocletian’s Palace
Where to Stay
For more specific recommendations on different hostels and hotels to stay in Split, check out my Full Guide to Split here.
Free Walking Tour Details:
- What tour company do you recommend? I’ve gone with a lot of different companies but Guru Walk is a super reputable company that has tours in tons of cities worldwide, so you can always expect great service.
- How much should I tip? Be sure to tip the equivalent of at least $10-15 USD per person for your walking tour. Remember, that’s the only salary these guides get and I can guarantee it will be worth it.
- How do I sign up? Head to Guru Walk’s website and register there. You can also join a walking tour by just showing up to the starting location at the right time, but I always choose to put my name in advance.
- What should I expect? Each walking tour has a description of what to expect on the sign-up page. Usually they’ll take you through the historic center of a city and share information about how the city formed and its history. The guides are also great resources for any other questions you have about where to eat, what activities to do, what to avoid, etc.
Pictured: View of the Bell Tower of Split from inside Diocletian’s Palace
- What is Diocletian’s Palace? Diocletian’s Palace is just that – it’s a palace built for the emperor Diocletian in the fourth century A.D. However, it’s probably not what you generally think of when you hear the word “palace” as it’s more like a fortress. Diocletian’s Palace is actually pretty much the entirety of the old city of Split, so it’s not just one massive building like you’d normally think of, it’s 220 buildings that house about 3,000 citizens of Split.
- How much does it cost to get into the palace? Because the palace is actually most of the old town of Split, it’s completely free to get into the palace but different areas of it require you to purchase a ticket. The ticket prices range depending on what you want to be included. My ticket (which I bought with a student discount – bring your student I.D.!) was less than $5 USD. Those areas include:
- The Bell Tower
- Cathedral of St. Domnius
- The Substructures
- The Museum of Split
- The Temple of Jupiter
- The Mausoleum
- Where can I buy a ticket? Tickets are sold on-site in one of the buildings along the Peristyle. If you just map yourself to the Bell Tower you can easily find the ticket booth from there.
Pictured: View of the Bell Tower of Split from inside Diocletian’s Palace
Pictured: My ticket to Diocletian’s Palace, purchased inside the Peristyle
Climb the Bell Tower
My favorite activity in Diocletian’s Palace was climbing the Bell Tower because I’m a sucker for finding a good aerial view of a city. The Bell Tower is included in many of the ticket options but make sure you get it with the one you purchase. This was one of my favorite views of the city so I highly recommend checking it out.
Note: Climbing the Bell Tower isn’t for the faint of heart or those with a fear of heights. The steps going up are very tall and can be difficult to climb with small children as well, but I saw people do it so don’t be discouraged!
Pictured: View from the top of the Bell Tower in Diocletian’s Palace
Pictured: View from the top of the Bell Tower in Diocletian’s Palace
Pictured: View from the top of the Bell Tower in Diocletian’s Palace
The Vestibule
The vestibule, a stunning circular room used to enter the residential parts of the palace back in the day, is another spot to check out in Diocletian’s Palace.
Pictured: The Vestibule in Diocletian’s Palace
While I thought there was just one viewpoint on Marjan Hill, there are actually two!
- The first is about halfway up the hill (although it feels a lot further) and is located next to Restoran Vidilica
- The second is at the very top which has a 360 view of the area, including the surrounding hills and islands rather than just the city like the first one
Check out all the details you need to know about climbing Marjan Hill below.
- Where is Marjan Hill? Marjan Hill is located just a couple of blocks northwest of the old city of Split.
- What is there to do on Marjan Hill? Surprisingly, there was a lot more to do on Marjan Hill than I had expected! Here are a few things you can check out besides the beautiful views:
- Grab a drink halfway up at Restoran Vidilica
- Check out the Natural History Museum at the top
- Take a picture with the Marjan Cross at the top
- See the beautiful St. Nicholas Church halfway up
- Is there an entrance fee? Accessing Marjan Hill is completely free of charge – all you need to do is walk up!
- How do I get there? The steps leading up to Marjan Hill are located just outside of the old town of Split. You can find the bottom of the stairs at Marasovića ul., 21000, Split, Croatia.
Pictured: The view halfway up Marjan Hill
Pictured: The view from the top of Marjan Hill
Pictured: Dinner at Ciri Biri Bella
Pictured: View of the largest waterfall at Plitvice Lakes National Park
From Split, you can get to the waterfalls one of two ways: via a rented car or a tour bus. Below is a breakdown of each option, as which you choose depends on a variety of factors.
Via Car Rental:
This is the route that I chose, but it might not be the best option depending on what you want to accomplish. I would recommend renting a car if you either 1) Have at least two people in your party (that will help to lessen the costs), or 2) Want to see both Krka and Plitvice Lakes in one day (because all tours I’ve seen only do one or the other). Below are the pros and cons of renting a car:
Pros:
- Flexibility on timing and ability to do as you please
- Ability to see both Krka and Plitvice Lakes in one day
- Can be less expensive than bus if you have more people
Cons:
- Driving, directions, etc. takes additional effort
- Need to pick up and drop off car from Split Airport (additional time)
- If squeezing in both Krka and Plitvice you can feel rushed
- More expensive than bus with fewer people
If you choose to rent a car, you’ll need to use GPS to get you to the waterfalls, which will also require cell phone data. I would recommend starting early with Plitvice Lakes because it’s further and try to be there no later than 9AM when the crowds start to come in. Walking around Plitvice when it’s crowded is miserable because the walking paths are extremely narrow meaning you’re waiting in lots of lines to see each waterfall. When you’re done with Plitvice, head onto Krka, which is on the way back to Split. Check out my full blog on Plitvice Lakes and Krka National Parks for more info on your journey!
Pictured: One of the walkways at Plitvice Lakes National Park
Via Tour Bus:
The other option is to go with a tour group that picks you up in Split. I would recommend this for solo travelers because you can 1) Meet other travelers (which is always a bonus!), and 2) It’s less expensive since there’s only one of you. These buses will meet in the old town of Split, drive you to the waterfalls, allow you to wander as you please and then meet back at a designated time to drive back.
Pictured: One of the lakes at Plitvice Lakes National Park
What to wear:
Wear comfortable shoes and other athletic gear to both parks as there’s a lot of walking (if you choose the long routes). You can’t swim in either park so swimsuits/towels aren’t needed, although you might get misted by a waterfall or two.
Time to arrive:
Arrive to both parks as early as possible (if you’re going with a tour bus they’ll make sure you’re there early as well). This means by 9AM. If you’re going to both parks as recommended above, you’ll arrive to Krka in the afternoon and that should also be more calm considering many people have left. Both parks have very narrow designated walking paths so if it’s crowded you’ll be waiting behind tourists most of the day rather than looking at the views. Additionally, the sun is better in the early hours of the day so you can see the waterfalls the best.
Eating & drinking:
Make sure you bring a water bottle to both parks because you’ll be walking a lot. At Pltivice there is a large area with food & drink to purchase about halfway through the park and at Krka there is food at the entrance and after the initial ferry.
Tickets:
For Plitvice Lakes, I booked my ticket in advance on their website here for 300 Kn or roughly $40 USD at the time. You can also book your ticket on arrival, I just did it to help save time.
For Krka, I booked my ticket in-person for roughly 150 Kn or $20 USD. Bring your student ID for a discount!
What to expect:
Plitvice Lakes:
At Plitvice, you’ll either be dorpped off by a tour bus or park your car near the entrance to the park. Grab a map upon entry (screenshot below) and talk to a park ranger at the entrace to see which route you should take. I chose Trail C (second screenshot below), which is the longest route through the park and takes about 3.5 hours if you’re walking at a fairly brisk pace. From there, you start walking! All of Plitvice is full of walking paths except one part where you take a small ferry across the largest lake. There hasn’t been swimming allowed at Plitvice Lakes for a handful of years, so you don’t need to account for that when planning your trip.
Pictured: Map of Plitvice Lakes National Park
Pictured: Trail C at Plitvice Lakes National Park (the trail I chose)
Krka National Park:
When you arrive to the Skadin entrance at Krka National Park, you’ll find yourself in a small town with food stands outside the ticket booth. Once you have your ticket (and designated ferry time) you’ll ride a 20-minute ferry into the park. While you can walk to the park as well, it’s a long walk and I thought the views from the ferry were half of the fun. Once you arrive inside the park you’ll find more food stalls and then a paved path in a cirlce around the park. Two things to note about Krka:
- It’s much smaller than Plitvice National Park and will take you less than an hour to circumnavigate the waterfalls
- The waterfalls themselves are much smaller as well. This definitely doesn’t mean that I would skip Krka altogether, but if you’re in a rush for time and you’ve already seen Plitvice, you don’t need to go to both.
Pictured: The main waterfall at Krka National Park
Well, that’s a tricky question, so I’ll give three answers:
- Both! If you have time, I recommend seeing both national parks. The waterfalls are very different at each and it’s lovely to get to spend a day witnessing the natural beauty of Croatia
- If you have to choose…Then I recommend only doing Plitvice. While it’s further than Krka, it’s much bigger and more beautiful (in my opinion). I don’t think Krka is big enough or has enough to see to spend a full day traveling there and back.
- If you’re tight on time…While it might come as a surprise, I recommend skipping both if you only have a few days in Croatia. Controversial, I know. But while the waterfalls are beautiful, I was slightly underwhelmed because:
- You can’t swim in either national park. This is to keep the park clean and environment healthy and free of human contaminents, but it’s hard to spend a day staring at beautiful water and not have an urge to jump in it.
- They’re very far from Split. Plitvice Lakes is a 5-hour roundtrip drive from Split, meaning you’ll spend more time in a car or bus as you will in the park.
- Unless you get there early (and I mean early) it’s extremely busy. Especially after a 2.5 hour drive, needing to wait for other tourists to move from place to place is not fun.
Pictured: The main waterfall at Krka National Park from above
When you get back to Split for your second and final night there, head to Corto Maltese for dinner in the old town. This was tied with my dinner at Ciri Biri Bella for my favorite meal in all of Croatia. With unique comic-isnpired decorations on the walls and delicious authentic Croatian food, it was a treat all around. I was able to walk in and only wait 10 minutes, so you shouldn’t need to make reservations in advance.
Pictured: My dinner at Corto Maltese in Split’s old town
On your last two days in Croatia it’s time to check out the islands! While I would have loved to spend more than two days on Hvar and the surrounding islands, this guide is to show you how to make the most of a short vacation in Croatia. So here’s everything I recommend doing on your two days in Hvar.
Pictured: The view of Hvar Town from the fortress at the top of the island
Getting There
Hvar is one of the main islands to travel to in Croatia, so it’s pretty easy to get to as long as you’re coming from the coast. From Split, it’s only an hour-long ferry ride and ships leave multiple times per day. Learn more about how to get to Hvar in this blog post. Otherwise, you can book your tickets here via DirectFerries or you can book them in-person at the ferry terminal in town.
Pictured: Some quaint stone homes in Hvar Town.
Getting Around
The populated and visited parts of Hvar Island are fairly close to each other, so you probably won’t need any transportation while you’re on the island as long as you’ve booked accommodation in or near town. If you want to explore some areas that are further out (more details on that below) you can rent a scooter or four-wheeler from town. Check out this blog post for my favorite activities, including where to rent scooters on Hvar.
Pictured: An alleyway in Hvar Town.
Below is an overview of some of my favorite things to do on Hvar. But, if you’re looking for a more in-depth article on each activity, click the button below!
Explore the Rocky Coastline
One of my favorite things about Croatia is the stunning rocky coastline that extends throughout the country, which is best seen on display on Hvar Island. While there are many beaches to check out there as well (click here for the best beaches on Hvar), people will often just find a good rock along the coast and set up shop for an afternoon. You’ll find that the rocky areas are less crowded than the beaches and also have easy access to swimming in the crystal clear waters as well!
To find these rocks, head down Šetalište Tonija Petrića, which is the main walking street around the island. To find this, you can type in Amfora Hvar Grand Beach Resort into your maps and stop at any of the walkways that you see leading up to it. My favorite spots were about 450m (a 5-minute walk) before you hit the hotel beach chairs on the water.
Pictured: Relaxing on some of the rocks found around Hvar Town.
Relax on the Beaches
Looking for beaches over rocky coastline? Click the link below for the best beaches on Hvar Island to enjoy a day in the sunshine.
Pictured: A beautiful view of the small beach, Križa, near Hvar Town.
Sunset at the Fortress
Atop the hill above Hvar Town is the Fortica Fortress, which is a medieval fortress whose construction began in the 12th century. While you can enter the fortress to find a small museum, instead I recommend finding a seat at one of the benches outside and enjoying the gorgeous view of the sunset over Hvar below you. Click the button below to learn all about how to get to the fortress and other activities on Hvar Island.
Pictured: The view of sunset from the Fortica Fortress.
Below is an overview of my favorite places to eat on Hvar Island.
Fig Restaurant
This was my favorite restaurant I ate at on Hvar! Serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner options, Fig has a wide variety of foods and is located in a quaint alleyway removed from the bustling area of downtown. No reservations required.
Pictured: Delicious dinner at Fig Restaurant in Hvar Town.
Mlinar
The best bakery on the island and a great spot to stop after a long night out (which you’ll have plenty of on Hvar). Pro tip: Try the burek, which is a local pastry made of meat or cheese with yogurt.
Kebab Factory
During my study abroad semester in Budapest, Hungary, I was awarded by my classmates with the superlative “most likely to be spotted at the kebab shop”. As such, it’s important to me to find the best kebab shop in every city I visit. On Hvar, that’s Kebab Factory.
Tip: Grab your kebab and take it up to the Fortica Fortress for sunset.
Pictured: A kebab with a view at Fortica Fortress.
In case you weren’t already aware, Hvar is a party island. While you totally can have a great time on Hvar without partying, in recent years it has begun attracting a crowd of young travelers looking for a great party, and it has delivered on their ask. Below is an overview of the best party spots on the island.
Bar Crawls
The first recommendation I have for anyone looking to party on Hvar Island is to join a bar crawl hosted by many of the hostels on the island. I stayed at Dink’s Place Hostel and they organized it for us with a lot of other hostels in the area.
Hula Hula
Hula Hula was my favorite bar I went to on Hvar! It’s an entirely outdoor bar that’s within walking distance from downtown. It’s only open until 10 PM because Hvar has a city-wide noise ordinance that outdoor bars can’t be open past then. Don’t worry though, there are plenty of other great places to check out until the wee hours of the morning, but Hula Hula is the perfect place to start your night.
Carpe Diem
Carpe Diem is the most iconic bar on Hvar and probably the one you’ll hear about most during your time there. In fact, it’s also where the bar crawls end their nights, so you can kill two birds with one stone with that one. The reason it’s so iconic is that it’s only accessible by boat because it’s actually located on one of the smaller islands nearby! Taxi boats leave from Hvar’s main port every 20 minutes throughout the day and then start leaving Carpe Diem at midnight to head back to Hvar.
